High on a hill behind Tsurumi Station in Northern Yokohama (just 20minites far from Tokyo by train) is an impressively large Buddhist temple with magnificent green rooftops and an overwhelmingly peaceful atmosphere. It is Soji-ji, one of the main temples of the Soto sect of Zen Buddhism.

The art of ZAZEN

One of the core practices of Zen-Buddhism is the art of "zazen" or "sitting meditation". Every Buddhist monk in Soji-ji spends countless hours each day engaged in this kind of meditation as a part of their daily regimen.

Now, Soji-ji has created an opportunity for the general public to participate as well - and the entire process is explained in English. This meditation experience is a unique opportunity to learn about Zen-Buddhism in Japan. Although most participants are foreign residents of Japan, Soji-ji also welcomes tourists who want to gain a more total experience while they visit here.

Try the extraordinary spiritual experience of zen

The following is what I experienced firsthand under the careful direction of the monks.
I and about 15 other participants got into our bare feet and marched down the long and beautiful wooden corridors that run between the main building and every other part of the truly vast complex. All the while, we walk with one hand placed inside the other in what is called a "shashu" pose. Once inside the zazen hall, each participant is given his or her own straw-mat platform and a small pillow-like ball to sit on called a "zafu". The instructions after that are simple:

Photo: The 152m long and beautiful wooden corridors, called "Hyakkenrouka"

1) Prepare your body (cross your legs properly and find your center of balance on the zafu.)
2) Prepare your breath (empty your lungs and breath in slowly)
3) Prepare your mind (clear your mind of thoughts and just "be")

However, this is easier said than done. In my experience even twisting my legs into the proper position was a bit of a challenge. Suffice to say, very few people will be able to gaze into the cosmos on their first try at Zen meditation. All the same, it is a fascinating opportunity to gain a peek inside the daily lives of the monks.

After awhile, the instructing monk comes around and taps you on your right shoulder. This is the signal to join your palms together and move your head to the left. He is about to strike your shoulder with an object that looks like a meter-stick. It does not hurt, but rather, it brings you back to a state of alertness and prevents you from accidentally falling asleep while in meditation.

Photo: Twisting legs into the proper position was a bit of a challenge.

After about half an hour, the meditation experience is over and the monks hold an explanatory session about the real meaning behind meditation. It is conducted in English by a kindly monk who spent nearly 18 years in the United States. For anyone curious about Zen-Buddhism this lecture is very interesting and highly informative. After the lecture, I had my own burning questions to ask the priest, and I felt like he answered them beautifully.

Me: At various times during the lecture, you mentioned that we should not seek to "get" anything from meditation. However, at other times you mentioned that a great deal of personal satisfaction and even happiness can come from meditation. At first glance, those two ideas sound as though they conflict. Could you please explain further?

Fujita: When we meditate, we are attempting to see our own position within an infinite and changing universe, even if it is only for a moment. Thus it is like trying to hold infinity in a bowl. It is not possible to see everything and, like ripples in a pond, once the moment is gone one cannot bring it back.
Meditation can bring you a very deep sense of satisfaction, but it does not last.

This is because the universe changes constantly, moment by moment, and so it is impossible to "see the universe" one minute, and then brag about it the next. Your vision of yourself against a backdrop of infinity is for you and you alone to experience. If, from this experience you are able to gain a deep satisfaction, then it is not because you went out seeking it but because it came to you. It's like sleep. The more we try to sleep, the harder it is to do so. But, when you let your body relax completely, sleep just comes to you. There is no shame in receiving what is given to you. If one gains satisfaction from meditation, then that should not conflict with the purpose of meditation.

Photo: Mr. Fujita, a kindly monk had spent nearly 18 years in the United States.

Me: You mentioned that Zen meditation is the main way you achieve spiritual satisfaction. Is this the only way?

Fujita: I believe that there are any numbers of different ways to achieve that kind of satisfaction. Many people from many religions have chosen to find it in their own way. I would never deny a different way from my own. However, for me, Zen meditation is the only way that I find spiritual enlightenment.

My questions were all answered to my satisfaction and I came away with a strong impression of the depth and sophistication of Zen-Buddhism.

After the meditation experience is over, participants are free to visit the various other parts of the temple which are open to the public. I highly recommend taking the time to do so.

The temple complex is enormous, and covered with impressive buildings of every shape and size. A great deal of fascinating artwork can be seen, and the beautiful gardens in the courtyards of the various buildings look like they came right out of an old Japanese story.